Getting Started

An army case is used to safely store and transport models.

However, for those of us who magnetise our units to movement trays, the purchasable army cases—with individual compartments—are rather unsuitable. So, in this guide, we will make a budget army case specifically for magnetised regiments on trays.

We will start with a sturdy cardboard box for the case. The box will contain removable shelves to maximise space efficiency so as to hold as many models as possible. We will use a piece of 3 mm thick balsa wood to make the shelves. A 1000 x 100 x 3 mm sheet is sufficient and can be purchased from a hobby store for about £1.

We will add soft foam to the ceilings of the shelves to protect the models underneath if the box is dropped and some rigid foam (plastazote) on the floors to hold the regiments in position. The plan is that the models are held magnetically to their trays and the trays are held in position by the rigid foam. An A4 sheet of foam costs about £1.

You'll also need a blade, a ruler, all-purpose super glue (suitable for sticking foam to cardboard), packing tape, and some PVA glue.

Preparing the Box

First, we need to get a sturdy cardboard box which is large enough to accomodate the army (and maybe extra room for future expansions). To ensure the bottom of the box doesn't split, we seal it with packing tape both inside and out. We could also put a thin layer of wood or foamboard inside to make a stronger base.

Now for the most important part: plan how you are going to arrange your units inside the box. Start by measuring the dimensions of the box and the thickness of the shelves and foam. Then make a list of all the units in the army and measure their height at the highest point (which is usually the top of their standard). Be sure to leave the models in their movement trays when doing this, as the tray adds a bit of height.

Group up similarly tall units. Now try to match one group with another such that their combined height is just less than the height of the box, so that when one is stacked above the other they will maximise the vertical space usage in the box. Remember to allow for the added height of the shelf and its protective foam ceiling.

You might also want to consider practicalities in the rules of the game when arranging the models. For example, I put my warhounds at the top of the box because I deploy them first and characters at the bottom because they are deployed last.

Making the Shelves

When the positioning of all the units is planned out, it's time to make the shelves. Since we are using balsa wood for the shelves, they will be a bit flimsy, so we need to support them: the bigger the shelf, the better. However, as the shelves need to be removable, we can't just have one or two large shelves because they would be awkward to lift out. So, we will make one long shelf spanning the width of the box on one side and two smaller shelves on the other side.

Measure and carefully cut the balsa wood to size and construct the shelves. A small raised border around the top surface will stop the movement trays above from sliding around. When the shelves are complete, put them in the box to ensure they fit, then affix the protective foam ceilings with all-purpose super glue.

Holding The Trays in Place

Since the models are held to their movement trays magnetically, we only need to hold the trays in place for everything to be secure.

On the top surface of each shelf, the small raised borders prevent sliding. We could also add some rigid foam to hold the units in place securely, which would protect them if the box is dropped. (However, the box I am making is for storage, not transportation, so I only needed the borders.)

The models on the floor will be held in position by rigid foam. We could use balsa wood for this as well, but the foam will provide a tighter grip. The foam on the floor also holds the shelves in position. Carefully cut the foam and super-glue it to the base of the box where needed. It is also a good idea to stick labels to the base of the box to remind you where things go.

Finishing Off

The flaps at the top of the box will naturally droop, so a couple of simple support beams can be placed in the box to hold them up. I have used a couple of pieces of balsa wood lodged loosely between shelves to stop them hanging down and to maintain the posture of the box.

I have left extra room in my box for dice, markers (in packets), spare movement trays, and other army-specific accessories.

Pros and Cons

One advantage of using a custom army case is that it lets you design it around your army, thereby maximising space efficiency. It is cheap, easy to make, light-weight, and provides some protection against knocks and minor drops. Furthermore, if you wanted it to be more protective against external factors, you could use a wooden or metal box (an old aluminium toolbox, for example) instead of cardboard.

Storing models in individual foam compartments is much safer if you plan on shipping your army anywhere, but a custom case is great if you are transporting it yourself. Regimental storage also saves a lot of time at deployment!